In addition to attending the Expo, we took a trip around the Northeast of the country before the Expo, and then another three days to the Southwest of the country on our own. We left San Diego (SAN) directly to New York (JFK) on American Airlines non-stop, and then over night to London Heathrow (LHR). After leaving Terminal 3, we transferred to the new Terminal 5, which is used exclusively by British Airways (BA) for their domestic and international flights. We cleared Immigration and Customs and after a three hour layover, boarded a BA flight to Glasgow (GLA). We then took a bus from downtown to Edinburgh (EDI), which took about an hour. We booked the flight to GLA because that was the location for the EXPO. Only after this was done did we get the word from VisitScotland that we would be departing on our NE tour from EDI. This is not a problem as the two major cities of Scotland are very close together, only about 50 miles and connections by Motorway (the M8), the trains and the buses are excellent. The train arrives in Waverly Station right in the middle of downtown on Princes Street, and the bus only a few blocks from there. We were able to walk to the George Hotel, on George Street which parallels Princes Street. Princes Street is the main street which runs below the famous Edinburgh Castle high on the hill overlooking the entire city. They are currently building a light rail system on Princes and it is blocked to traffic which has been diverted to George Street. The hotel is an old building which dates back to 1775 when the "new town" was built. It first opened as a hotel in 1881 and a 7 story extension to the rear was added in 1967. It was very clean, with modern bath facilities and flat screen TV and all the amenities you would expect in an upscale hotel.
Once again, BA dropped the ball on the luggage. Two years ago, we were on the Isle of Tweed (of the fabric fame) and on a flight back to GLA, the luggage did not make the flight and we could not attend a social function that evening because our clothes were in the bag and we got them delivered late in the evening. This time, our bags were not transferred from American to BA despite the 3 hour layover in Heathrow. A very long story, but it took almost two days for the bags to reach us in EDI. This despite being assured in GLA that the bags would be on the next flight in and we would have them later in the afternoon at the hotel in Edinburgh. Hogwash! The alleged procedure is that they give you a claim number and a sheet which is an 800 ph. number and a website so you can track you luggage. It doesn't work worth a damn. You try to call and always get a message that they are busy and to call again later. Try the website and it doesn't recognize the claim number. The problem is it takes two days to get into the system and by then you usually have your luggage. Same story on this trip as two years ago. The BA staff are all very nice and apologetic (did you ever notice that about the Scots and the Brits?), but after two years still had not solved the problem. It was all could do to keep from telling them enough apologies; just fix the problem! The hotel staff was very helpful and kept calling on our behalf. When it was determined that the bags were now at their depot at EDI airport, I said I'd go out there and get them myself. The hotel manager assured me she knew the courier company and that they were reliable, and called them and told them we had to have the luggage as we were leaving in the morning. They arrived late afternoon.
We joined about 13 other travel agents from Canada and the US for our trip in a 15 passenger Mercedes bus. The driver was great, the guide not. In the UK, the best of the best in the guide world are the "Blue Badge" guides. They all are very knowledgeable and we have had wonderful experiences with them in the past. This time we had a guide who was an ex-pat American from Wisconsin. She had met and married a Scot quite a few years ago and lives in Scotland and only visits the US occasionally. While very knowledgeable, she woman was vaccinated with a phonograph needle - (am I dating myself here or what!). She talked incessantly and included the relevant and the irrelevant and the inane non-stop. She alienated the entire group very quickly. The sound was quite loud from her microphone and she said she could not turn it down. I realized that the speaker directly overhead had an on/off button. I conspired with my fellow travelers that on my count of three (using my fingers held up high) we would all turn of our speakers simultaneously. What a riot! She was clueless; momentarily confused and then she and the driver re-cycled the system and she was back in business. With the exception of the guide, the rest of the trip was great.
We headed north out of Edinburgh and over the Firth Bridge to our first stop, Loclievan Castle in Kinross. The castle ruin sits on an island in the middle of the lake, and was visited by Robert the Bruce and it was here in 1567 that Mary Queen of Scots was imprisoned and forced to abdicate her throne before her dramatic escape one year later.
Our next stop was Falkland Palace which was the country residence of the Stewart monarchs when they hunted deer and wild boar in the forests of Fife. Today it is probably most famous for the oldest tennis court in the UK. The docents were in character and period costume and were very helpful with the history of this location.
For a change of pace, we stopped later at the Scottish Deer Centre which is on about 65 acres of land where they have over 140 different deer from all over Europe. They also have four wolves and we were there in time to watch them get fed and listen to a short discussion of wolves in Scotland. After watching them eat, you want to steer clear of them in the wild unless appropriately armed to protect yourself. they also had a collection of various birds of prey, including several owls. The keeper was a young lady who really knew her birds very well. Both Ellie and I had the chance to put on the heavy leather glove and have the most beautiful owl I have ever seen sit on our arm. We got some fabulous pictures and you can really see the detail in the feathers.
We ended the day in St. Andrews on the coast, home of golf and a fabulous castle. We had to divide the group into two different accommodations: the St. Andrews Golf Hotel and Brooksby House, a 5 star B&B. We were very lucky and stayed in the Nicklaus Room at Brooksby House. There are a total of 5 rooms, each named after a winner of the British Open at St. Andrews. This was a highlight of the trip for us. The best accommodations we had on this trip. Caryn and Chris are the owners and they invited the four of us who stayed there into the living room and offered us drinks and light snacks. When they offered a wee dram ( Scotch whisky in a distinctly shaped shot glass) I willingly accepted. Chris poured a dram of 18 yr. old McCallan, which is an excellent scotch. They were two of the nicest people you would ever want to meet. Our room was wonderful, with flat screen TV and all modern amenities despite the home being at least 100 years old. Fresh fruit in the room, sherry and chocolates. Simply a fabulous place which I cannot recommend enough. If any of you are planning a trip to St. Andrews, check out brooksbyhouse.com. (And no, I receive nothing from any place I recommend). Brooksby House has a well deserved 5 star rating from VisitScotland. The breakfast the next morning in the large dining room was delicious, with many different options beyond the standard Scottish breakfast. This was simply the best with wonderful owners who made you feel at home immediately.
The next morning we did a walking tour of St. Andrews, and the weather cooperated beautifully. We visited St. Andrews Castle, once the administrative centre of the Scottish Church. A real treat was St. Andrews University, where the future King of England attended, and the chapel. It dates back to the 14th century, and there is a pulpit in front from which John Knox used to preach. Amazing stuff. In the balcony is a massive old pipe organ, and as it was Sunday, the choir members were arriving in their very colorful robes as we were outside. Once inside, they began rehearsing for the service which was to take place shortly. An old powerful organ and choir; a very pleasant sound to enjoy.
We also toured the grounds of St. Andrews cathedral, which amazes everyone who visits. It sits on the shore facing the North sea, and was huge. It must have looked like St. Patrick's cathedral in New York or Westminster Abbey in London; simply a magnificent structure. If this type of thing interests you, I would HIGHLY recommend a great book: "Pillars of the Earth" by Ken Follett. It is about 20 years old, but a fabulous read. It is fictionalized history about an English stone mason as the main character and his life and Follett develops some wonderful characters. It also is pretty accurate as to how the law was structured in the 12th Century, how they ate, their commerce, how they farmed and the different trades and how they built these massive cathedrals. Follett also released a follow-on sequel entitled "World Without End" that picks up the story of the fictional town about 100 years after the end of the first book. Many masons made one project their life's work. Simply fascinating to read about and to visit some of these cathedrals.
From St. Andrews, we drove to Discovery Point in Dundee to visit the "Discovery", the ship on which Capt. Scott and Ernest Shackleton sailed to Antarctica and spent two long harsh winters frozen in the ice. There are multiple media presentations regarding the project and building the ship and the voyage. This was followed by a tour of the ship by a tour guide was simply delightful. An old codger who had a wonderful sense of humor. Great fun.
After lunch, on to Arbroath Abbey. This is a significant location as the place is where the Declaration of Arbroath, in which Scotland's nobles swore their independence from England. this massive Abbey was founded in 1178 and is important in Scottish history.
Of course not trip to Scotland would be complete without a visit to a Scottish distillery. After spending a pleasant night at the Lord Kinord Hotel near Ballater in Royal Deeside, we headed north into the Whisky Trail ( The Scots spell their national drink without the "e". i.e., whisky instead of whiskey. In America you ask for whiskey and you'll get bourbon; in Scotland, you ask for whisky and you get Scotch.) We were fortunate to visit the Glenlivet Estate, which is in a beautiful setting in the highlands in Banffshire. While we were there, they were in the process of constructing a large addition to the distillery which will double their capacity! The guide emphasized the key to good whisky is the water which in the case of the Glenlivet comes from a spring on the property.
While we did not visit Dufftown on this trip, it is not far away and we have visited there before. There is liquor shop in the center of Dufftown not to be missed. When there, a Scot introduce us to Heather Cream. If you like Bailey's Irish Cream, you will love Heather Cream. It is made with Scotch not Irish whiskey and is very, very, smooth. Unfortunately, it is not exported to the USA, so you now have an excuse to visit the Highlands!
Next installment: Glasgow and the Southwest.
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